This was something I recently stumbled upon while on Pinterest and I have never before seen a lighting guide put together so clean and simply, so I thought I'd share.
Showing posts with label Tips and Tricks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tips and Tricks. Show all posts
Saturday, January 17, 2015
Thursday, May 1, 2014
A New Lighting Guide
Littman Brands has published a new lighting Look Book this is a very helpful guide into lighting and design.
The look book details different design styles and gives great tips on how to create and place lighting for every room in your home.
Some useful tips include how to create 3 layers of lighting: Ambient, task and accent.
Ambient lighting or the base layer of a room can be determined by multiplying the square footage of a room by 1.5 the total number will be the minimum amount of incandescent watts required to illuminate a room.
Task lighting is to illuminate activities in your room, to figure out the amount of light you need take the square footage of the task area and times it by 2.5. Use this equation in the kitchen where you will be doing food prep, or near the vanity where you will need extra light for grooming.
Accent light should illuminate the space with 3 times more light than the surrounding area. An accent areas is a something you want to draw extra attention to, like art, with a picture light, or an architectural element in the room like a fireplace or a special feature.
Other tips include how to find the right size fixture for every room and where to hang them.
Wednesday, April 16, 2014
Light Control Education
Why do you use dimmers?
In the past, before the "light bulb law" I used dimmers mostly as a way to save energy. With the Energy Independence and Security Act of 2007, energy usage is now regulated. That does not mean that you no longer need to do your share to help with energy consumption. It means that now more than ever before there are more options and more ways to save energy.
I still use dimmers to save energy, even with more energy efficient bulbs (It is true that your energy usage decreases when the lights are dimmed with energy efficient bulbs) - but I now find myself more concerned about how well a bulb dims. Take for example my little kitchen I just remodeled, I am using 10 of a 7 watt MR16 LED bulb and 3 of a 10 watt LED PAR20 bulbs. I choose bulbs from TCP, a 7 watt MR16 GU10 LED bulb in the 2700K with white housing that looks great in my white glass shade track heads from CAL. The PAR20 also in a 2700K from TCP bulbs goes in a metal pendant from Murray Feiss, the Dutch pendant shown here, and here, that hangs over my island/bar. These bulbs dim remarkably well, they go very dim, and I love that the housing is white so the bulb doesn't stand out inside my track heads. I have all 100 watts on one dimmer switch, I used the Ariadni dimmer from Lutron. I more often than not have these lights dimmed. (Side Note: can you believe I light up my entire kitchen with 100watts of light, not including my under cabinet lights which is a total of 12.75watts (not on a dimmer)- So 112.75watts lights up an entire kitchen- really well! Incredible!) In my kitchen I use my dimmer more for comfort than I do energy consumption. When I am cooking I want a lot of light, but in the early morning or later in the evening I want soft light. Do you find this true with you as well?
Do you know that not all CFL and LED's are dimmable?? Yep- here we go again, we want to use energy efficient bulbs, we want to save energy but why is it so complicated??
I feel your pain- I really do!
I have customers who come in all the time and feel frustrated and overwhelmed with all these changes, some who come buy bulk of the incandescent bulbs (yes, we still have a few) so they can use incandescent bulbs even after the energy bill is fully implemented at the end of 2014. I even feel overwhelmed by all the changes, new product seems to hit the market everyday. I want to test all the new product and see if it's as good as advertised- especially when it comes to dimming capabilities.
At the store we try to make sure that the product we recommend meets a standard we would all be willing to take home and use. Gary Felt, aka the in house light bulb expert, spends a significant amount of his time ordering and testing new bulbs. We test the bulbs on the showroom floor, in the offices, the shop, the bathrooms, and in the warehouse. We test so many bulbs in different applications, if you need a good bulbs ask us to help, we can give you some recommendations! I recently came across a helpful guide that I want to share with you, Lutron, one of, if not the biggest distributor of light controls/dimmers has a LIST, an ever changing list, of dimmers that are compatible with the CFL and LED bulbs. You can use this list to find a bulb that will work with the dimmer you all ready have or find a dimmer that will work with the bulb you like best. Keep this list in mind when you buy you next energy efficient light bulb, you're going to need it, of course you can always just call, email or better yet stop by the store, we are here to help!
Friday, March 14, 2014
Friday's Favorite: White on Trend
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Eurofase Bollo Pendant |
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Eurofase Piquito Pendant |
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Eurofase Rojin Pendant |
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Eurofase Valente LED Pendant |
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Murray Feiss Freemont Pendant |
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Murray Feiss Dutch Pendant |
I have been searching high and low for a metal pendant for a special application, and I wanted to share my favorite from the search. High gloss white is on trend right now, and the metal makes these pendants extra durable. All of these are hung on 120 volt cord, which is important for this particular job since these will be converted into pendants that will hang off a track- Did you know you can do that? It's a great alternative when you want multiple pendants but only have one power source. For this job there is one power source in the middle of the kitchen we are using a track in a large T shape, at the end of the kitchen is a bar where 3 of these pendants will hang. What pendant do you like the best?
Wednesday, March 12, 2014
Comfort Dim- New from Nora Lighting
Recreate the warmth of the sunset with LED Lighting
An innovation in energy efficient dimming, Comfort Dim presented by Nora and Cree™, warms the light as fixture is dimmed. Comfort Dim color tunes the temperature from a bright 2700K to a romantic and comfortable 1800K on a gradual, even curve. The Comfort Dim option is available on the Nspec Sapphire Series and the Nora Marquise Series downlights making them perfect solutions for restaurants, cineplex, home theaters, multi-purpose event venues and other applications where the temperature and comfort of the light set the mood. The Comfort Dim option is available on 4 different lumen levels:
850 and 1250 Lumens for lower ceiling heights in commercial and residential applications. (Sapphire and Marquise Series, Marquise Retrofit)
2000 Lumens for light commercial and residential high ceiling applications. (Sapphire and Marquise Series)
3000 Lumen for commercial applications (Sapphire Series)
Wednesday, January 29, 2014
What is New in Lighting for 2014: LED Lamps
TCP's LED A Lamp
Aside from cost here is what you need to know to buy LED
bulbs:
1-
How Bright is the LED
While the industry standard has always been to measure light
output by wattage you now also need to be aware of lumens. Wattage is the
measure of energy used, in the past the incandescent bulbs brightness was
directly determined by their wattage. LED bulbs produce more lumens while using
far less energy so wattage is no longer a way to gage the brightness of a bulb.
Packaging of LED bulbs will still list the wattage consumption, and what
wattage the LED will be replacing compared to an incandescent bulb. But
government regulations now mandate packaging list the lumen output. A lumen is technically defined as one candela multiplied
by one steradian. In layman’s terms, one lumen is equivalent to the light
produced by one birthday candle from one foot away. To expand this idea, seeing
100 lumens is like standing one foot away from a cake with 100 birthday candles
on it.
Lumens,
unlike watts, are a direct measure of light output. Therefore, a larger lumen
count means a brighter bulb.
2-
How is the light distributed?
If you want a light bulb’s light to be distributed in a
similar way to incandescent you need a LED bulb that is omni-directional. ENERGY
STAR defines omni-directional light as light evenly produced over 270 degrees. This
is most applicable to A19 and candelabra bulbs- A19 bulb is the one most of us first
picture when we think of a light bulb. The same bulb we use as an icon over a
person’s head when illustrating they are smart or had a brilliant idea.
Candelabra bulbs are typically used in chandeliers and outdoor fixtures and are
shaped like a flame.
Other types of bulbs, directional bulbs like MR16, PAR’s and
R’s used in recessed cans and track lighting will still be available in various
degrees of spot and floods.
3-
Is the quality of the light acceptable?
LED bulbs are available in various shades of white, on a scale
of soft white to daylight. This is the CRI, color rendering index, I did a
whole post dedicated to this, read more about CRI here.
Another key to help make sure you are getting a good product
is to look for the ENERGY STAR label. For a bulb to become an Energy star qualified
it goes through vigorous testing that is done over 6,000 hours to ensure the
consumer is getting a bulb with high quality. The testing includes categories
such as brightness, distribution of light, performance under different
temperatures, and overall efficiency of the bulb. The energy star website has a
tool where you can compare different LED bulbs that can help you find the
perfect bulb for your application.
4-
Is it Dimmable?
Not all LED bulbs are dimmable, if you have a dimmer please
make sure that you buy a dimmable LED bulb. This should be clearly marked on
the packaging saying DIMMABLE.
Lastly for those of you who do buy LED bulbs, LED’s are all
about thinking long term in pay off for cost. Take for example a CREE 60-watt equivalent LED bulb, it costs $1 per
year to operate , based on electricity rates of $.11 per kilowatt-hour and
usage of six hours per day; compared to $7 per year for a 60-watt incandescent,
not including replacement costs. This is significant in long term saving not
only energy wise but for your wallet too.
We try our best to get in LED’s from many vendors, test them
in the showroom to see what we think is the best. If you want to see LED’s on
display or would like to talk further about LED technology and bulb replacement
options stop in the store. The world of LED is rapidly changing, changing for
the better, and we try to keep up on all the new and improved lamps, we are
happy to share our knowledge with you any time, we are here to help!
Tuesday, November 5, 2013
What is CRI?
I had a customer ask me yesterday what CRI is and why it is important.
CRI is Color Rendering or the Color Rendering Index. Just today I received an email about CRI from one of my vendors, with the subject fresh on my mind from a conversation yesterday I found this information very useful.
The following information was sent in an email from Nicor written by, Trevor Shaw. with added illustrations from Google Images.
The human eye was created to perceive colors in direct sunlight, thus all color perception under artificial light must be judged against this standard.
Various lighting technologies have differing abilities to show or render color accurately. This ability is measured by a scale called the Color Rendering Index (CRI). Created by the International Commission on Illumination (CIE), the Test-Color Method, and mainly the Color Rendering Index, has been accepted by the industry as the standard method for measuring color rendition.
A test light is used to illuminate a panel of 8 "standard" colors. For each sample, the light source is evaluated for its ability to render (Ra) the colors compared to a reference source (usually an incandescent source) and rated on a scale of 0 to 100. A score of 100 would be comparable to sunlight. A score of less than 100 indicates some colors may appear unnatural.
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Photo from Google Images |
The CRI of various light sources available on the market is as follows:
CRI
|
Type
|
Rating
|
22
|
Low Pressure Sodium
|
Poor
|
50-60
|
Standard Warm/Cool White Fluorescent
| |
60-70
|
Premium High Pressure Sodium Conventional Metal Halide
|
Fair
|
70-80
|
Thin Coat Tri-Phosphor Fluorescent
| |
80-90
|
Standard CRI LED
White High Pressure Sodium, Warm Metal Halide
Thick Coat Tri-Phosphor Fluorescent
|
Good
|
90-100
|
High CRI LED,
High CRI Fluorescent
Incandescent / Tungsten-Halogen/Sunlight
|
Excellent
|
Which Source to Choose?
High CRI sources are the clear choice for proper color rendering and a more pleasing space, and are becoming a requirement in some areas , so how does one go about choosing the proper lighting technology?
For a standard working space that requires 90+CRI, LED and Fluorescent are the main technologies used. Halogen lighting also has excellent CRI but is inefficient and operates at very high temperatures. While these technologies will list >90 CRI on data sheets, the lighting they provide is not identical. Spectral Power Distribution (SPD) shows the energy of the light source at differing wavelengths of energy. In other words, it shows which colors will show best under the light source.
The SPD curves of the technologies (See Figures 2 and 3) show that the LED source provides a more even spread across the full color range versus the peaks of the Fluorescent, therefore providing more accurate color rendering across a full range of color. High CRI LED = more color, more accurately.
Thursday, October 3, 2013
Fall is Here
The leaves are starting to fall, the air is getting crisp, it gets dark earlier this means fall is finally here. It's time to start thinking about all the things we need to do inside and out to prepare for the cold months that lay ahead. What does that mean for you with lighting?
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Photo from Google Images |
1. This is a great time to make sure everything is working, you know all the table and floor lamps you haven't needed because you have been outside enjoying summer these past months. Check that you have good light bulbs, preferably some great energy efficient ones, and if you need something repaired bring it into our shop so we can fix it.
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Artemis Fan |
2. Turn your ceiling fans in reverse- heat rises and the fan in reverse mode will help keep that warm air circulating into the room!
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Hinkley Outdoor Light |
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CFL Bulb |
3. Did you know that the normal compact florescent (CFL) bulb does not work in cold temperatures? If the temps reach below 20 degrees the CFL will not turn on. If you are using CFL's in your outdoor lights, especially post lights that are away from the house, change them to the CFL's rated for freezing temperatures. We sale one that will work in -20 degree temps! These are not very common, so make sure you read the box and you are getting the one rated for negative temperatures.
Friday, August 2, 2013
Friday's Favorite: Saving Energy with Lutron's Dimmers
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Diva in RED |
Lutron makes dimmers in almost every shade imaginable, I would bet you have seen their advertisements somewhere, they are in almost every home décor magazine around. But did you know that their dimmers can help you save energy? One thing I love about their website is the Energy Saving Calculator this is a great tool to help anyone understand how dimming can help you save money.
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Maestro Occupancy Sensor |
A newer product that will also help you with your energy bill is a sensors, sensor's are great for rooms where lights are often accidentally left on, such as a
child’s room, or rooms where you often enter with your hands full, such as a
laundry room. This is a great way to help you save energy without a lot of effort or thought on your part; everyday the sensor does the work for you. We use senor's in the restrooms here at the store. I love having sensors in some parts of the showroom where it is not necessary to keep the light on all day, every little bit helps.
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Plug-in Credenza Dimmer |
Last I want to share our best selling dimmer- This is the most convenient little device. you can plug any lamp into this and have a dimmable fixture. We sale tons of these little guys! I have one attached to the lamp on my night stand, I really like having the dimmer right next to my bed.
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Thursday, March 21, 2013
Spring Cleaning
It’s finally here- SPRING! I am so happy that the days are longer
and we can start spending our evenings outdoors. Another thing to look forward to
is spring cleaning (maybe not the cleaning itself but having everything clean)
which brings me to my tips and tricks for cleaning your lights.
A few things to check for before you start cleaning
1.
Make sure the fixture is turned off. I would
hate for anyone to get zapped while cleaning their lights.
2.
Check for brittle lamp cords or any loose/frayed
wires, if you find any bring your fixture to us to repair and re-wire.
Lampshades
The best method I know is
to vacuum your shades, use the brush attachment on your vacuum and start at the
top of the shade vacuuming in downward motions turning the lampshade as you go.
If you have not cleaned your shade in a
long time you will notice a difference right away. This method can be harmful
to older shades that have lost their elasticity so be cautious, if your shade
is more than a decade old use a soft paint brush and gently brush the dust off
the shade in that same downward motion I mentioned before. Another method is using a lint roller, again
be careful that you don't have an older shade because it can catch the fabric
and rip. But a lint roller can be a really good method especially on lampshades
with a plastic backing.
Brass
Brass fixtures are another item that can be tricky to clean. The
first step is to determine if it’s really brass and not just painted or plated
to look like solid brass. The easiest way to do that is to hold a magnet up to
the fixture; if the magnet does not stick it may have no brass at all or is
only brass plated. Brass fixtures will often be finished with a varnish to
protect the brass,. This layer is often removed when you are using cleaning
products, and once you remove the varnish there is nothing left to protect your
brass from tarnish. Just because there is some tarnish doesn't necessarily mean it needs to be cleaned. Tarnish may sometimes
produce a desirable patina that enhances a piece. Antiques are especially
vulnerable so if you have a valuable piece, consider leaving it uncleaned or
having it professionally cleaned. You can always dust your brass fixtures with
a feather duster or a soft cloth. If you want a deeper clean because the brass
is simply dirty or oily, mix a mild detergent with warm water. Dip a soft cloth
into the soapy water and wipe the piece down with the cloth.
Toothpaste works well to polish brass. Apply a pea sized drop onto a cotton
cloth and rub in small circles. Rinse with clean water and buff the residue
off.
A lemon half dipped in a plate of table salt will also remove heavy tarnish
and leave a clean, but unpolished look to brass.
If you do a deep clean on your brass fixture and have removed the varnish,
consider adding a layer of polyurethane sealer,
varnish, or polymer-based car wax to the fixture to protect it. Follow the manufactures
instructions of whatever product you choose to use.
Don’t forget that excessive cleaning can damage brass, think less
is more in when it comes to brass.
Fans
The days are getting warmer and you may start using your ceiling
fans more to help cool a room, now is the time to wipe down the fan blades, the
top of the blade can collect a lot of dust during the winter months.
Crystal
One of my favorite products for cleaning crystal, and by far the
least amount of work for your bling is Clean and Bright. I have been stocking
this product for years. It is a solution you can spray on your crystal and let
it drip dry (I do recommend placing a towel under the fixture to catch the
drops).
If you want to really deep clean your crystal use warm water and
vinegar, this will get rid of any grease build up- you will have to rub the
crystals down individually with the vinegar solution and for the very best
result also dry them with a clean cloth. This method will make your crystals sparkle
for months.
Glass
Please wash by HAND! I have had so many people destroy glass by
putting it in the dishwasher. Automatic dishwasher detergent can scratch or
dull the decorative design and coating on some glass. A lot of glass used for
lighting is hand painted, this paint will not hold up in a dishwasher. Use a
damp cloth with very mild dish soap to wipe down glass on your lighting
fixtures. If you want to take the glass off the fixture to clean it TAKE
CAUTION often time’s glass is not replaceable. We do have glass replacement
companies and some manufactures will sale glass replacements but identical
matches are hard to find!
Happy spring cleaning!!
Saturday, February 16, 2013
Saving Money with your Lighting
Yep, that is right you can save money
by using the right type of lighting! Here are a few tips to help you.
One sure way to save money with
lighting is to turn off your lights, if this is something you forget to do, try
a motion sensor. Here at Felt Lighting we have motion sensors in all of our
restrooms. Motion sensors can be set to turn off after a certain amount of time,
and as long as there is movement in the room the light will stay on.
In your home a great place to start
is by replacing your old fixtures with Energy Star fixtures. Energy Star is a
rating given to energy efficient fixtures, usually these fixtures use compact
fluorescent (CFL) bulbs or LED bulbs. Not all fixtures with CFL or LED are
Energy Star, if the fixture is indeed given an energy star rating you will see
it clearly marked.
Rocky Mountain Power offers rebates when you
buy Energy Star fixtures for your home or office, for more information on the programs
check here. There are also federal rebates available; here is more information.
Thursday, February 14, 2013
Light Bulbs: What you Need to Know
The Federal Government has passes
a law that phases out the standard incandescent light bulb. Here is what you
need to know.
Changes in
maximum wattage
100watt
change to 72 watt max in 2012
75 watt change
to 53 watt max in 2013
60 watt
change to 43 watt max in 2014
40 watt
change to 29watt max in 2014
*Changes go
into effect one year earlier in California and British Columbia
Products
available to replace your incandescent bulb: Types
Halogen, Xenon, CFL, LED, Cold Cathode, Induction Light Bulbs.
Halogen, aka Quartz Halogen
*Omnidirectional,
it throws light in all directions.
*On the
Kelvin scale, the color temperature is approximately 3100 K.
* On average
last 2,500 hours
*Dimmable
*Contain no
hazardous waste
*Between 20
and 22 Lumens/watt
Xenon:
Similar to Halogen in size,
shape, color and light output. It burns cooler and last longer than halogen.
*Average
xenon last 8,000 to 10,000 hours
*Dimmable
*Contain no
hazardous waste
*Between 20
and 22 Lumens/watt
CFL, Compact Florescent Light:
*Omni directional
light source
*Available
in different colors on the Kelvin scale
*On average last 6,000 to 15,000 hours
*not all are
dimmable
*Contain
some hazardous waste; mercury should be disposed of correctly.
LED, Light Emitting Diode:
*Unidirectional
light source, throws light in one direction
*Available
in different colors on the Kelvin scale
*On average
last 25,000 to 50,000 hours
*not all are
dimmable
*Contain no
hazardous waste (studies being conducted on possible hazards with lead, copper
and nickel content in LED bulbs)
*Between 50
and 100 Lumens/watt
Cold Cathode:
*Omni
directional light source
* Available
in 2700 K (warm white)
*On average
last 25,000 hours
*Most are dimmable
*Contain
some hazardous waste and should be disposed of correctly.
*Between 100
and 125 Lumens/watt
Magnetic Induction Light Bulbs:
*Omni
directional light source
*High on the
Kelvin scale, the color temperature is in the 4000k-6000k range, it has a blue
hue. (2700k may be available soon)
*On average
last 65,000 to 100,000 hours
*not
dimmable
*Environmentally
friendly as induction lamps use far less energy, and almost no mercury per hour
of operation than conventional lighting. The mercury is in a solid amalgam and
can easily be easily recovered if the lamp is broken, or for recycling at
end-of-life.
*Between 62
and 90 Lumens/watt
Important Terms to Know
Wattage/Watt – (w) – The measure of electrical
power
Voltage/Volt – (v) – The measure of electrical charge
Ampere/Amp – The measure of electrical current
Kelvin – (K) – The measure of color temperature
Lumen – (lu) – The measure of light brightness
Candela – (cd) – The measure of light intensity
Pattern – The beam pattern of light that is projected. This includes depth and width of illumination, and angle of light dispersion.
Voltage/Volt – (v) – The measure of electrical charge
Ampere/Amp – The measure of electrical current
Kelvin – (K) – The measure of color temperature
Lumen – (lu) – The measure of light brightness
Candela – (cd) – The measure of light intensity
Pattern – The beam pattern of light that is projected. This includes depth and width of illumination, and angle of light dispersion.
Wednesday, January 16, 2013
Under Cabinet Lighting
Here are a few of the most commonly used under cabinet lighting systems. Kitchens are the biggest gathering room in most homes, good lighting is very important in your kitchen. Under cabinet lights add depth, dimension, are both functional and decorative. These are the finishing touches you do not want to miss in your home.
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Photo found on Pinterest |
Halogen, Xenon, and fluorescent bars or strip lights are popular
under cabinet lighting options. All of these can be plugged into an electrical
outlet or hardwired to a power source. These light systems will link together creating
a continuous light source to illuminate any length of counter top.
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Puck Lights |
Puck lights are another option, more often than not pucks
are a 12 volt system, so they require a transformer. Most pucks use halogen or
xenon light bulbs and are 20 watts each. A puck light can be recessed or
surface mounted. Pucks create a spot light effect although the effect can
change by changing the glass lens; there are color filters as well as spread
lenses and diffusers.
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LED tape |
There are many options in under cabinet lighting with LED
tape being the most popular request as of late; it is a great option if you
have a matte surface, if you do not like to change light bulbs and if you need
a low profile option. There are a few things to keep in mind with LED, as this
picture above illustrates on a high gloss (like most granite) surface the bulbs are reflective
and will be very noticeable. If you have a lip under your cabinets I recommend mounting
the LED tape to the side of the lip so that it does not shine directly onto the
counter top. This will diffuse the harsh light so the reflection is less noticeable.
I wish I had a good picture to show the difference, I will have to try to find
one.
LED light requires a driver, most systems have drivers that can be hardwired or drivers that will plug into an outlet.
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